Silk Charmeuse: What It Is and How to Sew It
Silk charmeuse is a satin-weave silk with a lustrous face and a soft matte back, medium in weight and fluid in drape. It is pure luxury to wear and more versatile than its reputation suggests — as good for a bias-cut skirt or an upscale camisole as for eveningwear. It is slippery and it ravels, but both are solved problems. Here is how to handle it, with expert tips from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.
What is silk charmeuse?
Silk charmeuse is pure luxury. It is soft, elegant, and surprisingly versatile. Charmeuse is a medium weight, woven silk with a lustrous appearance, rather like the surface of a pearl. And like the pearl which it resembles, it is an elegant classic!
Pretreatment
Handwash in cool water with a drop of baby shampoo, rinse several times, lay flat to dry. Dryclean if preferred.
Needles and thread
Use the smallest needle you can see to thread. I like a size 10 quilter's needle, as the point is very sharp. Silk thread is a luxurious option for construction; if you cannot find silk thread, use cotton embroidery thread. Cotton embroidery thread is fine in texture, but strong enough to handle construction of this beautiful fabric.
Interfacing
If you prefer a fusible, use the lightest weight you can find. Look for Silkweight, Touch of Gold, or other super-fine fusibles.
By far the best interfacing for charmeuse is silk. Use silk organza for those areas that need a bit of crispness. Use a layer of self-fabric for those areas that need interfacing but need to retain a soft hand.
Seams, seam finishes and hems
Shorten your stitch length slightly for construction; if you normally use a 2.5 length, shorten to 2.0. For seams on the bias, use a zigzag stitch (2.0 length, 1.5 width) to allow the fabric to maintain the stretch of the bias.
Seams will require finishing, as charmeuse ravels. The best solution is to use a French seam for construction. Stitch the first seam with wrong sides together at 3/8". Trim to a scant ¼", press the seam open, then turn right sides together. Stitch the second pass of the seam ¼" from the fold of the original seam. This enclosed seam is elegant, clean, and classic.
If you prefer to use a machine stitched finish, keep it light. Use a 2 thread overlock seam on the serger, or trim the seam very closely and zigzag over the edges to finish. Hems are best done by machine, and should be as narrow as possible.
Cutting: taming a slippery fabric
Charmeuse can be slippery. To control the personality of the fabric, lay it flat over a layer of tissue paper to cut out your pattern. Use weights or silk pins, and cut through the paper and the fabric at the same time.
What to make with silk charmeuse
Blouses, dresses, evening wear, bridal wear, skirts, tops, tees, scarves, and upscale lingerie.
Creative possibilities
Pintucks, lace applications, beading, multiple topstitching, bias cuts, ruffles, and ruching all work well with charmeuse. Test your desired surface treatment on a scrap before committing to a full garment; you may find that small doses of embellishment are all that are needed to make your garment special.
Sewing Drapey Wovens
These wovens with drape are some of the most universally flattering fabrics currently available. The balance and weight of this type of fabric gives it a beautiful hand, and you’ll find it to be incredibly versatile! Charmeuse is one of the family; so are crepes, challis, sandwashed silks and the softer rayons. The handling below applies across all of them.
Pretreatment: Depending on the fiber content, your pretreatment may be either washer and dryer or dry cleaning. Test a sample first; if there is shrinkage, pretreat by drycleaning. While you are testing your fabrics, check for the possibility of heat imprints from the iron. Some of the fabrics will require a cooler iron than others; if you see the outline of your iron when you lift it off the fabric, set it for a cooler temperature.
Needles and Thread: For most wovens, I prefer a sharp needle. These are currently labeled as “quilting” needles, and are packaged with two sizes: 75/11 and 90/14. For these drapey wovens, use the 75/11 needle. If you cannot find the sharp/quilting needles, use a universal point needle, size 70/10 (for the thinner fabrics) or an 80/12 (for crepe-type weaves and medium weight fabrics). Polyester thread or cotton covered polyester thread are both good choices for these drapey fabrics.
Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems: Standard straight seams, medium stitch length (2.5) are appropriate for most seams. If you cut the fabric on the bias, or have a bias edges (such as on an a-line skirt), switch to a small zigzag (2.5 length, 2.0 width), so the fabric will have “give” in the bias seams. A hand-stitched hem is beautiful in these fabrics. Topstitched hems can also be beautiful for this type of fabric. Clean-finish any seams with the lightest treatment possible, such as rayon seam binding, bias binding made of thin fabric, or a two or three thread serged edge.
Interfacing: To maintain the drape of these fabrics, choose a lightweight interfacing. I like So-Sheer for most uses. Waistbands, collars, and pocket welts might require a more substantial interfacing. In these cases, use a second layer of the sheer interfacing, or use one layer of a lightweight weft insertion interfacing, cut on the bias so the drape of the fabric will be maintained.
Pattern Suggestions: These fabrics are incredibly versatile. They work well in traditional suit-style garments. They make beautiful shirts, skirts, and dresses. But my favorite garments from these are pants; you’ll live in them!
Creative possibilities: These fabrics are perfect for the unconventional garments often seen in independent pattern companies’ offerings. The drape, weight, and balance of these fabrics are perfect for your favorite funky and fun patterns!
The Interfaced Hem
Interface the hems of skirts or pants made from drapey fabrics. You’ll appreciate the clean appearance this little bit of reinforcement will give. Cut strips of interfacing on the bias or the crossgrain of a knit, twice the width of your finished hem. Position them just inside the cut edge of the wrong side of the fabric, fuse, then continue with stitching your hem as you would normally do. You’ll love the results!
More on silk
See the main silk fabric guide for silk in general, or the guides to dupioni silk, sandwashed silk and sheer silk. For the satin weave in other fibres, see the satin fabric guide.
Shop silk charmeuse
Browse the silk fabric collection at EOS, including the special-order 100% silks in 98 colors. Back to all fabric care guides.
FAQ
What is silk charmeuse?
A satin-weave silk with a glossy face and a soft matte reverse, medium in weight with a fluid drape.
What's the difference between charmeuse and satin?
Satin is the weave; charmeuse is satin woven in silk, and lighter and more fluid than most satins. See the satin guide for the other fibres.
What interfacing works best on charmeuse?
Silk. Silk organza where you need crispness, self-fabric where you need to keep a soft hand. If you must fuse, use the very lightest — Silkweight or Touch of Gold.
Does silk charmeuse fray?
Yes, it ravels readily. A French seam is the best answer: it encloses the raw edges completely.
How do you stop charmeuse slipping when you cut it?
Lay it flat over tissue paper, use weights or silk pins, and cut through paper and fabric together.
What can you make with silk charmeuse?
Blouses, dresses, eveningwear, bridal, skirts, tops, tees, scarves and upscale lingerie.